Mexico has tequila. Japan has sake and Korea has soju. India is now talking mahua. The recent launch of mahua spirit, inspired by the Indian tribal drink, by Goa-based distiller Desmond Nazareth has put the concept of heritage liquors including tadi, feni and handiya in the spotlight. Industry experts believe that after Goa, Bengaluru could be the key market to raise the profile of these country liquors to the commercial segment.
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Nazareth, who heard about successful trials of a sample batch of artisanal mahua at a bar in Bengaluru, believes the flower-distilled liquor will make an excellent base for cocktails. Nazareth has already tasted success in Bengaluru with his range of heritage liquors Agave (tequila) and Nagpur orange liqueur over the past five years. “We have a 30-40% market share in the Agave category and 50-60% share in Orange liqueur segment in Karnataka, with Bengaluru as our main market,” said he.
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His distillery’s mahua has already hit the Goa market where he claims to have sold 200 cases in two months. Bengaluru will see the drink in the next six months. A sparkling mahua, to compete with champagne and prosecco, is also in the pipeline. Mahua is the only distilled spirit in the world made from a sweet flower. Studies show that India annually produces more than 10 lakh tonnes of mahua flowers, with maximum contribution coming from Chhattisgarh.
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Goa has already set an example by bringing feni into the mainstream market. “Local power lobbies, moral gaze and element of shame attached to country liquor have not given it the necessary push yet. It works in Goa as the mindset is evolved.”
To which Nazareth added, “The moment we up the game and raise the profile of country liquor with quality distilling, it will be embraced like wine in Europe.”